Post by juice on Sept 25, 2011 13:19:13 GMT -5
In this thread you will find help with wheel setup and car setup building. Some of this might be 'old news' to a few, what are you doing reading this then? ;D
First, if your wheel isn't setup right, no car set will make up for it and you will not be fast. Read this wheel setup guide.
To add, setting wheel rotation in control panel is mostly a preference, but, lower rotation=faster response and usually less precision. This setting goes with how much steering lock you use in the garage. Here, MORE lock=quicker, more sensitive response. You can work with both to get the feel you like, and you can use these settings to adjust setups in fixed races.
Car wont turn, try more lock/less rotation or a combo of the two.
Car loose, try less lock or more rotation or both. For now, leave the "sensitivity" slider on 50%. Once you are comfortable with lock & rotation, you can experiment with sensitivity.
Now for garage setup. This is aimed at the new physics for 2012, but it does apply to 2011 (and other mods even)
Springs, one of the most important adjustment in the garage. Almost alway you will need more front springs vs rear, starting out with 200~250lb more front vs rear is a good ballpark. Higher the banking and speeds=more spring will be needed. Start with big changes to find what works, than smaller and smaller as you zone in on the 'sweet spot'
Tires pressure, as important having it right as springs. Watch for the tire temps after a few laps. You want a good spread across the tires. Right side, the inside will be hottest, then middle, then ouside. Left, just the opposite. If you find a setup works good at first and then 'goes away', chances are it's from wrong pressures. Each track will be different, but right sides usually need more ~10psi or more difference roughly.
Roadcourse, same applies, but you set both sides the same.
That brings me to weight distribution. 54/46 left/right is pretty much for all ovals. (50/50 RC) The front/rear weight bias is more important. If you like a loser (more to rear) or tighter (more to front) weight adjustment.
Camber (front and rear): more negative on the right, more postivive on the left helps the car turn left to a point. Go too much and grip drops off. Tire pressure is your indicator, I like about 20* temp spread inside to outside. But some tracks will need less, maybe more.
Caster: this should be somewhat similiar to camber, but in rfactor it isn't. Caster spread in rfactor affects how straight your car stays under the brakes. Experiment with this. Ideally, even caster will give you dead straight braking. **may have other mystery affects on handling**
Tape, don't use too much or you will blow the engine. LOL
Ride height, experiment, increasing left rear seems to help tighten the car under certain conditions, same with raising right front. (and vice versa)
Shocks, I left this for last as shocks don't directly affect the handling. Shocks affect the transition starting to turn in, exiting the turn. Higher settings resist more. I suggest starting with both compression and rebound the same until you get your chassis closer to dialed in. Then you can experiment with offset shock settings (not same on compression/rebound) The new 2012 will only have on setting for each comp/rebound as per the rules in nascar. 8/8 front, 4/4 rear is a good staring point.
Front sway bar, more bar=tighter car generally. Experiment with it.
Rear sway bar, more bar=loser car, generally. Again, try changing it to see how it feels. Suggest starting with rear bar disconnected except for road courses.
Brake bias, this will affect turning in IF you are a trail braker (Still on the brakes entering) If you're off the brakes before you turn in this won't really change the handling much. More forward brakes bias=tighter on entry.
I'll add stuff periodically. ;D
First, if your wheel isn't setup right, no car set will make up for it and you will not be fast. Read this wheel setup guide.
To add, setting wheel rotation in control panel is mostly a preference, but, lower rotation=faster response and usually less precision. This setting goes with how much steering lock you use in the garage. Here, MORE lock=quicker, more sensitive response. You can work with both to get the feel you like, and you can use these settings to adjust setups in fixed races.
Car wont turn, try more lock/less rotation or a combo of the two.
Car loose, try less lock or more rotation or both. For now, leave the "sensitivity" slider on 50%. Once you are comfortable with lock & rotation, you can experiment with sensitivity.
Now for garage setup. This is aimed at the new physics for 2012, but it does apply to 2011 (and other mods even)
Springs, one of the most important adjustment in the garage. Almost alway you will need more front springs vs rear, starting out with 200~250lb more front vs rear is a good ballpark. Higher the banking and speeds=more spring will be needed. Start with big changes to find what works, than smaller and smaller as you zone in on the 'sweet spot'
Tires pressure, as important having it right as springs. Watch for the tire temps after a few laps. You want a good spread across the tires. Right side, the inside will be hottest, then middle, then ouside. Left, just the opposite. If you find a setup works good at first and then 'goes away', chances are it's from wrong pressures. Each track will be different, but right sides usually need more ~10psi or more difference roughly.
Roadcourse, same applies, but you set both sides the same.
That brings me to weight distribution. 54/46 left/right is pretty much for all ovals. (50/50 RC) The front/rear weight bias is more important. If you like a loser (more to rear) or tighter (more to front) weight adjustment.
Camber (front and rear): more negative on the right, more postivive on the left helps the car turn left to a point. Go too much and grip drops off. Tire pressure is your indicator, I like about 20* temp spread inside to outside. But some tracks will need less, maybe more.
Caster: this should be somewhat similiar to camber, but in rfactor it isn't. Caster spread in rfactor affects how straight your car stays under the brakes. Experiment with this. Ideally, even caster will give you dead straight braking. **may have other mystery affects on handling**
Tape, don't use too much or you will blow the engine. LOL
Ride height, experiment, increasing left rear seems to help tighten the car under certain conditions, same with raising right front. (and vice versa)
Shocks, I left this for last as shocks don't directly affect the handling. Shocks affect the transition starting to turn in, exiting the turn. Higher settings resist more. I suggest starting with both compression and rebound the same until you get your chassis closer to dialed in. Then you can experiment with offset shock settings (not same on compression/rebound) The new 2012 will only have on setting for each comp/rebound as per the rules in nascar. 8/8 front, 4/4 rear is a good staring point.
Front sway bar, more bar=tighter car generally. Experiment with it.
Rear sway bar, more bar=loser car, generally. Again, try changing it to see how it feels. Suggest starting with rear bar disconnected except for road courses.
Brake bias, this will affect turning in IF you are a trail braker (Still on the brakes entering) If you're off the brakes before you turn in this won't really change the handling much. More forward brakes bias=tighter on entry.
I'll add stuff periodically. ;D